fashion tips › 2016年02月

Lights, camera, fashion


Lights, camera, fashion

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Celebrities might have flocked to the front rows of this week’s London Fashion Week shows, but some designers are swapping the runway for Hollywood’s awards season red carpets as the fashion world seeks new ways to draw attention.

Ahead of the Oscars ceremony on Monday morning, Singapore time, the most-watched entertainment event around the world, Hollywood has been the setting for numerous fashion events.

British designer Stella McCartney threw a party showcasing her latest collection at famed music store Amoeba, Saint Laurent Paris took over The Palladium music venue for its menswear show, Gucci announced a celebrity ambassador, and Kenzo debuted a new short film.

“It just feels like a moment when music, film, fashion, the arts, it’s all just come together for LA,” designer Stella McCartney told Reuters at her presentation, attended by the likes of Katy Perry and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Celebrities and fashion have long had a symbiotic relationship, from Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy to Jennifer Lawrence and Christian Dior.

But Los Angeles traditionally is not regarded as a trend-setting city as the year-round sunny weather doesn’t allow seasonal clothing changes as much as fashion capitals New York, Milan, Paris and London.

That notion is slowly changing. In 2012, Saint Laurent Paris moved its Parisian label design studios to Los Angeles. Last year, Tom Ford and Burberry presented star-studded runway shows and Louis Vuitton held an exhibition in Hollywood.

The spotlight on Los Angeles comes at a time when brands are rejigging the runway-to-retail model and making new fashion available faster to customers. “Runway shows don’t have same impact as they once did, mainly because there’s so much of it and it’s overcrowded,” said Eric Wilson, fashion news director of InStyle magazine.

The red carpet, however, is watched by the entire world.

“One red carpet hit at the Oscars is equivalent to a year’s worth of marketing for a designer,” Wilson said.

Tom Ford last year moved his London Fashion Week presentation, scheduled for after the Oscars, to Los Angeles ahead of the Oscars. He then dressed nominee Reese Witherspoon for film’s biggest night.

“The world is even more obsessed with celebrities than ever before,” Wilson said. “You’ll see more big name designers who are based elsewhere coming to Los Angeles to do events, for the proximity to celebrities.”

This year, McCartney has scored numerous hits on Hollywood’s red carpets; Actress Lawrence donned a black pantsuit at the Oscar nominees luncheon, singer Ellie Goulding wore a blush pink gown to the Grammys and Taraji P Henson wore a white strapless dress when she won a Golden Globe for TV show Empire.

At the Grammy Awards, Justin Bieber and Beck wore Saint Laurent Paris while British singer Florence Welch, Gucci’s new celebrity spokesperson, wore a blush pink dress by the brand on the red carpet.

French brand Kenzo debuted short film Snowbird by film-maker Sean Baker featuring its spring-summer 2016 collection with model-actress Abbey Lee Kershaw, who starred in the Oscar-nominated Mad Max: Fury Road.

“The weather, the rock and roll-ness of LA, it’s an allure especially for the European designers,” Kenzo creative director Humberto Leon said.Read more at:evening dresses uk


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Halifax woman goes from fleeing


Hafiia Mira

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When she was eight, Hafiia Mira didn't know what some mornings would bring as her family sought safety underground as bombs fell around them in Kosovo. Now more than 15 years later, the 24-year-old model and aspiring fashion designer is revelling in newfound fame that has landed her centre stage in Kanye West's orbit. Mira just returned to her adopted home of Halifax from New York Fashion Week, where the former bartender modelled the wares of the musician and clothing designer. She spoke to Alison Auld of The Canadian Press:

CP: How did you end up on a stage at Madison Square Garden, modelling the clothes of Kanye West?

MIRA: I've grown up creating my own creations and one of my friends had gone to L.A. and had met up with Kanye and mentioned that I sew my own clothing. So it wasn't even about the modelling to begin with. So he went on my Instagram and saw everything, and his representative sent me a bunch of emails.

CP: What did the emails say?

MIRA: It was just, 'Hey, on behalf of Kanye West, we would like to invite you to New York and possibly work with us.' That was last February and they flew me out that week. I got there and did castings and fittings and afterwards we did a photo shoot.

CP: What was it like to meet Kanye West?

MIRA: He was very, very friendly. He's a great guy, very inspiring. I respect anyone that works hard and follows their passion. I was quite surprised that he already knew who I was before I had even talked to him.

CP: So you've worked for him three times and recently attended the launch of a magazine of his clothing in New York?

MIRA: I went to the party and I walked in and to my surprise, I learned that I had been chosen to be on the cover of the magazine. It was really cool. They were like huge wall canvasses in this huge warehouse and a bunch of different photographers and artists were there.

CP: You must have seen some other high-profile people at these events.

MIRA: Yes, I've met all of the Kardashians, Justin Bieber, Kendrick Lamar, Drake, I've met a lot of musicians and the list goes on. They're usually at the afterparties.

CP: What's that world like?

MIRA: To be honest, it's so hectic. I never thought I would be on the modelling side of it. I thought I would be the one creating the clothing and that is my ultimate plan. I just got very fortunate, so I've just been going along with everything.

CP: What's it like to step off the plane in Halifax after all of that?

MIRA: Halifax is always my peace and my calm. I get to come back and relax and unwind and see my family and friends. Whether I go back home to Europe or to New York, anywhere I go I'm always glad to come back to Halifax.

CP: You were very young when you left Kosovo. What are your recollections of living there?

MIRA: I can tell you every single day that I lived there. It was extremely hard. My family lost everything. The one thing I wish I could tell people is, I wish they could appreciate everything they have here. They're so fortunate here.

CP: Was there fighting taking place near your home?

MIRA: Yes, we hid, we left our home, we were underground with hundreds of other refugees. We could hear bombs all around us. It was absolutely crazy. My mom would prepare us every night. She would prepare us every night and we would have jackets on and food nearby that she would prepare the night before just in case we had to leave right away. My mom is the most incredible woman in the world.

CP: You have gone through a lot to get to this point. What do think when you reflect on where you came from and where you are now?

MIRA: There was a moment when I was doing the first fashion show, it was pitch black, surrounded by a couple hundred people and I actually teared up and started to cry because I just could not believe where I had come from and all of the things that went into me just standing there alone and it was just quite overwhelming.Read more at:short prom dresses


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Mulberry, Hill and Friends and Anya Hindmarch AW16


Mulberry AW16 show

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“Fashion just got friendlier,” remarked Emma Hill following her extremely perky five-minute film presentation to introduce Hill and Friends’ second collection, the accessories brand she launched with fellow Mulberry alumna Georgia Fendley, in September.

Six months later her team of 10 “or is it nine?” has redoubled their product offering to include a wider selection of small bags and leather goods and are finally taking wholesale orders. Their smiley-faced raspberry coloured brand of accessible luxury with “a sense of humour” (bags have cutie-pie names like “Tweency”, “Zippy” and “Happy”) is aimed at a woman who wants a “grown-up silhouette and bags with polish but does not take herself too seriously”.

It seems to have become a unique quirk of British design that our accessories must be fun. At Anya Hindmarch, which showed on the same day, bags were emblazoned with images of retro 1980s juvenilia: the primary-coloured squares of a Rubik’s cube and jagged, crab-like Space Invaders. Last season Hindmarch modelled her bags on high street signage, with bags from Boots and Mothercare.

But I have an issue with playful things. I am especially uncomfortable with playfulness being assumed as a national trait, as though for our appreciation of something lovely and sophisticated to be acceptable, it must necessarily be offset by infantilising it. I don’t like to clown around with accessories. They are too expensive to treat as toys. So I had high hopes for the first outing from the former Céline accessories designer Johnny Coca. The 40-year-old Spaniard was announced as the new creative head at Mulberry in November, following a ghastly period of profit warnings and stock collapse at the British luxury house. Could Coca and his new chief executive Thierry Andretta, return the house to its former standing? Might he bring new glamour to Mulberry. Early signs were confident: the company returned to profit last December but this first show, staged after a 30-month absence from the London schedule, was a chance to build some real momentum.

The Guildhall was certainly a grand enough setting to stage the next act. So were the show notes which cited Shakespeare and “the playwright’s capacity to replicate all echelons of society; from the noble to the nobody, the royal to the rebel” as inspiration. In fact, Coca’s greatest influence was the British street where he has been observing the tribes of London to find the new codes for the house. His new Mulberry was a bold one. Gone were the heritage details and quaint satchel-like offerings of yesteryear and here instead was a whole new look: Coca had even reintroduced an old Mulberry logo from the 1970s to announce it. There were at least 20 new bags, many embellished with hardware details and chainlink straps. He had taken the press studs of a biker jacket and used them to fasten handbags and totes designed for utility and versatility. A medium-sized “Djura” bag was sliced into pockets with zippered sections for maximum functionality. A caban bag was studded along bonded leather edges to pop open and refasten in alternative ways. Andretta has insisted Mulberry bags will be repriced between £500 and £900 in a bid to make them more accessible. There were many options here.

The clothing meanwhile echoed many of the same ideas: biker studs popped along the spines of a woollen cape and overcoat and were punched all over a leather biker jacket. The looks — part punk, part urban royal — featured pretty silky blouses, tulle and floral brocades mixed with mannish trousers and wool coats. Shoes were stack-soled with heavy treads and silver buckled straps. Some were worn with leather spats, all part of Coca’s attempt to emulate the English style of mixing it all up. Wear with, wear without; it is up to you. I wanted to like it far more than I did. I liked Coca and his desire to explain his love of British style and the eccentricities of our sartorial ticks. I believed that he felt Britain was “right” for him because it offered him “the freedom to design” and his longing to find “the value in a piece that demonstrated real technical function and quality”. But I spent a lot of time wishing he had just left stuff alone: why worry a lovely wool coat with so much white overstitching? Why stick studs where none will do?

So much embellishment seemed almost overcompensatory. Coca was employed from one of the great houses of minimalism, where he designed some of its greatest hits. There were achingly few of those elements here; a fantastic navy overcoat, the bib-fronted shirts, a string bag and matching string shift dress and a long glossy leather jerkin offered a tantalising glimpse of what could be. But maybe minimal is not right for Mulberry. Perhaps Coca has also understood the British luxury label as having to be quirky. Maybe, as Hill said, British fashion does need to be more friendly and eccentric. And maybe our “playful” sense of fun is in fact our greatest export. Let’s see how the number roll.See more at:graduation dresses


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Emerging designers to watch at London Fashion Week


London Fashion Week is traditionally seen on the global fashion stage as the city where young, fresh talent is given a platform. So who are the new wave of emerging designers following in the footsteps of the Christopher Kanes and the J.W. Andersons? Ahead of London Fashion Week, which kicks off this Friday, we present 12 of the most exciting up-and-coming names on the schedule for AW16...

1. Roberta Einer

Roberta Einer only graduated from Westminster University in 2015, and then launched her own eponymous label a few months later in September. The 23-year-old Estonia-born designer spent a year working in Paris with Olivier Rousteing at Balmain as an intern and a print and embroidery assistant, and has also interned at Mary Katrantzou and Alexander McQueen. She is the definition of a maximalist; rich embroidery is at the core of all she does. The British Fashion Council NEWGEN committee have labelled Einer the 'One-To-Watch' for AW16 and she is one of eight designers with NEWGEN support this season.

2. Katie Jones

Katie Jones

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Central Saint Martins graduate Katie Jones launched her knitwear label with the British Fashion Council's Estethica Emgerging Talents for AW14. She has worked with the likes of John Galliano, Diane Von Furstenberg and Mark Fast. Her collections are a riot of wild colourful knits: each piece is hand crafted by her small London team (which includes her mum, Annie) and can take up to 100 hours to make. Katie is also making a noise about sustainability in fashion, sourcing all of her materials in the UK using factory seconds and textile waste.

3. Richard Malone

RIchard Malone


Richard Malone is one of the four designers selected to take part in the Fashion East AW16 show. The designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2014, made his London Fashion Week on-schedule debut last season with Fashion East. He was awarded the Deutsche Bank Award for Fashion for his graduate collection - an award previously given to Christopher Kane. Malone is all about celebrating the individual - for his debut LFW show Malone cast diverse models ranging from 'artists to solicitors.'

4. Mimi Wade

Mimi Wade

Mimi Wade is fresh out of Central Saint Martins having graduated from the Fashion Print BA course in 2015 and gained experience with Margiela and Jitrois. She is joining Fashion East's AW15 showcase, following on from her celebrated Old Hollywood-inspired graduate collection. Mimi's key inspiration is her grandmother 'Granny Panny,' who was a Hollywood actress and appeared in films such as 'The Blob.' Whatever her inspiration is for AW16, it's safe to assume there will be loud party prints.

5. Mary Benson

Mary Benson

Mary Benson, 25, is all about whimsical, ethereal pieces, with a focus on magical prints and ladylike full skirts. Benson interned at Alexander McQueen, Richard Nicoll and Vivienne Westwood and graduated from the University of Westminster in 2014. She made her LFW debut with Fashion East (a showcase for emerging designers founded by Lulu Kennedy) last February.

6. Caitlin Price

Price is another designer in Fashion East's class of AW16. The London-based designer is all about luxe sportswear, elevating tracksuit bottoms into something not just acceptable, but chic. She was awarded the Armani Scholarship at Central Saint Martins by the late Louise Wilson and was womenswear designer at Christopher Shannon.

7. AV Robertson

A.V. ROBERTSON is one of four labels selected to show with Fashion East this season. Amie Victoria Robertson launched the label in 2015 after graduating from Central Saint Martins BA Fashion Print in 2014 and working at Marc Jacobs as a Design Assistant. Amie already has an impressive following within the industry: she was personally recommended to Fashion East by Katie Grand and Katie Hillier.

8. Marta Jakubowski

Poland-born Marta Jabukowski graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2014 with an MA and worked at Hussein Chalayan, Alexander Wang and Jonathan Saunders. She has presented two seasons at London Fashion Week and this season is showing with support from NEWGEN, the BFC and Topshop initiative which has previously supported Erdem, Christopher Kane and J.W. Anderson. She said toAnOther of setting up her collection so soon after graduating: “If you’re scared you shouldn’t do it. People speak about the tuition fees and costs of being a young designer and say that they can’t do it, but I believe that where there’s a will, there’s a way. In the end, what you have to do is make clothes and sell them.”

9. Faustine Steinmetz

Steinmetz completed her MA at Central Saint Martins under the legendary Louise Wilson and founded her label in early 2013. Faustine focuses on craftsmanship, making her fabrics from scratch - in her hands denim becomes a thing of wonder and intricacy. “All of our hand woven fabrics are made using traditional techniques and are hand powered by the user; no electricity is used,” Steinmetz told The Telegraph. “Everything is woven on large wooden Countermarch floor looms, which consist of sets of shafts being raised or lowered independently of each other by pedals.” She was nominated for the Emerging Womenswear Designer Award at the 2015 British Fashion Awards.

10. Molly Goddard

This is only Molly Goddard's third season at London Fashion Week, but she has already made a big impact in the industry with her charming chiffon princess dresses and her weird but wonderful presentation set ups. For her AW15 collection models were perched behind easels in a life drawing class (complete with a naked model), and for SS16 guestes were transported to a make believe sandwich factory. On Saturday evening we will see what Molly has in her dressing up box for AW16 - we hope this time she makes a make-believe chocolate factory.

11. Danielle Romeril

Danielle Romeril launched her label at London Fashion Week with her SS13 collection and this season she is supported by NEWGEN. After graduating from Limerick School of Art and Design in 2007 she worked in Paris with Sharon Wauchob and Sinha-Stanic in London. Last season her 'Paradise Lost' collection was all about texture, featuring palm tree prints and layered monochrome pieces.

12. Alice Archer

Alice Archer was discovered by Browns' Simon Burstein, who admired her embroidery and produced her first ever capsule collection 'Alice Archer for Browns'. The Royal College of Art graduate is presenting her AW16 collection at London Fashion Week on Friday. Expect beautiful painterly prints from Alice, who uses a technique that combines print and embroidery to create a finish inspired by oil paintings.


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Big changes are coming for Toronto Fashion Week


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Changes are coming toToronto’s fashion week — including the name of the event.

Beginning on Monday, Canada’s biggest style showcase will be rebranded simply asToronto Fashion Week, complete with a new website and social media handles. The name change comes following the end of a six-season deal with World MasterCard as the Toronto event’s title sponsor.

The event will also see the addition of a fresh slate of homegrown talent on the calendar, a reconfigured space, and an effort by organizers to bring more consumers into the fold.

Fall-winter collections are slated to be unveiled next month.

IMG Canada operates Toronto Fashion Week in collaboration with IMG Fashion, which has fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, Moscow, Sydney and Tokyo within its portfolio.

While organizers are hoping to find additional sponsor support, they don’t foresee any impact on staging the upcoming Toronto event.

“We really want the focus to be on the designers and on the industry,” said Catherine Bennett, senior vice-president and managing director of IMG Fashion Events & Properties.

“We are looking for partners that understand the industry, and that’s the need for constant evolution, and also the unique opportunities within that market.”

With the elimination of the smaller studio space used, all collections will be showcased on the main runway.

“One of things that we’re offering designers is the ability to do fashion presentations in the fashion environment where they can reach potentially more people and a greater audience… They’re able to reach also the consumer audience that’s in that environment,” said IMG Canada director Carolyn Quinn.

“The feedback has been that they’re really interested in doing a runway show but can’t necessarily fill the space with the right people. It seems a bit daunting. The runway room fits 800 people, so the opportunity to do multiple designers in one show is something that they’re very interested in.”

Bennett said Toronto was one of the first markets where they had success with having consumers attend shows, which are typically targeted towards buyers, media and others within the industry.

They’re hoping to boost attendance among everyday fashion fans who will be able to check out several newcomers to the Toronto Fashion Week calendar. Among them: bridal and women’s ready-to-wear designer Christopher Paunil, fine jewelry designer Daniel Christian Tang, Montreal designer Marisa Minicucci and Toronto-based womenswear brand Jennifer Torosian.

Previous Fashion Week favourites slated to showcase new lines include: award-winning Alberta-born, Toronto-based Sid Neigum; leather goods retailer Rudsak; Montreal labels Soia & Kyo and UNTTLD; Toronto-based womenswear brand Mikhael Kale; Edmonton’s Malorie Urbanovitch; and eveningwear specialist Stephan Caras.Read more at:celebrity dresses


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How Korea became fashion's new fraternity


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It is for this reason that when Delevingne et chien arrived at the Chanel show in Paris last week, a man who would later be identified as G-Dragon — a K Pop megastar — was the one to steal the limelight.

Clad in a fur deerstalker, double-breasted blazer and Breton top, Mr Dragon was certainly impossible to miss. But he was met with whispers of “who is that guy?” from confused Brits who watched as he swaggered idly along the front row amid a flurry of flashbulbs.

Born in Seoul in 1988, G-Dragon, AKA Kwon Ji-yong, is a South Korean singing sensation. A key member of boy band Big Bang — a sort of Korean One Direction — he is Seoul’s answer to Harry Styles.

But he’s not the only South Korean to have grabbed the attention of the style brigade. Wise to the power of social media — G-Dragon has 7.7 million Instagram followers — a host of labels and brands are waking up to the global pulling power of K Pop.

Sooyoung of Girls’ Generation — an eight-strong girl band founded by South Korean pop factory S.M. Entertainment — was among those seen in the spring/summer shows in New York last autumn.

She was joined by her boyfriend Minho — a singer with the group Shinee — and Busan-born Dara, who attended the Givenchy show alongside Kanye West. Sulli, a singer and actress, also appeared alongside New York’s Park Avenue princesses at Tory Burch’s latest presentation.

While some cynics might consider this K Pop/fashion love-in as nothing more than a marketing collaboration, it is difficult to dismiss the influence of South Korea on the luxury fashion world right now. Along with its home-grown roster of designers who are commanding increasing attention on the global stage, the country plays host to artists who take their fashion seriously.

As proof of this, rapper CL, a Seoul-born, Paris-raised star with 3.6 million followers, was the only celebrity invited to a dinner celebrating French label Vetements last week.

Next month she will join her contemporaries on the front-row at their country’s own increasingly popular fashion week.

Truly, the only way is Seoul.Read more at:vintage prom dresses


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