fashion tips › 2017年03月01日

Vaccarello in Paris


Anthony Vaccarello’s mission to build his version of Saint Laurent was plain to see on Tuesday night in Paris.

His second show for the house took place in the courtyard of the new HQ, which is still under construction. The assembled fashion crowd, including Kate Moss and Jane Birkin, took their places – with Saint Laurent-branded blankets handed out as an attempt to stave off any chill – on marble seating surrounded by scaffolding. A digger, presumably used by the construction team earlier in the day, formed the backdrop.

Models present creations by Vaccarello for his A/W 2017/18 women’s ready-to-wear collection.

Vaccarello didn’t count on the rain, which began falling with the start of the show. But the designer couldn’t be accused of a lack of effort. This show, with diverse casting, was around 100 looks and three collections – one womenswear, one menswear and a finale of evening purple prom dresses uk.

Like his first collection, it was a collage of the brand’s rich history, mixed with Vaccarello’s own sexy take on glamour. “I love Monsieur Saint Laurent’s subversive approach to clothes, his dark romanticism with a hint of perversity,” the show notes read. “I wanted this collection to be like a re-reading, a radical fantasy of this heritage.”

A lot of those clothes looked set for the most hedonistic of nightclubs – of which Saint Laurent, in his youth anyway, was a fan. For womenswear, while there was a concession to daywear with skinny jeans and sweaters, 80s-style cocktail dresses dominated, made of everything from leather to vinyl, velvet and chiffon. Most looks were paired with ruched leather knee-high boots and a cone heel. Expect to see them in a lot of fashion shoots come autumn. The menswear featured slouchy tuxedo trousers, simple shirts and a selection of boxy jackets that will no doubt be replicated on the high street.

The finale provided the sucker punch – yellow prom dresses, boots, shirts, sweatshirts, skirts, jackets all covered in crystals. An astute photo op intended to have #saintlaurent trending on social media within minutes. It even meant that those watching forgot – for a moment – about the rain.

Vaccarello’s approach is one that appeals to the digital native generation. “I think it’s not about changing identity,” the designer told the New York Times this month. “It’s about making it for now.” This chimes with Saint Laurent himself. He designed a collection based on beatnik style in 1960 and launched his ready-to-wear line Rive Gauche in 1967 in a bid to court younger customers.

The 37-year-old Vaccarello joined Saint Laurent in April 2016, following the departure of Hedi Slimane. He has a hard act – acts – to follow. Slimane’s era at Saint Laurent was incredibly financially successful – tripling the size of the brand in the four years he was there – while Tom Ford and Yves Saint Laurent himself are hardly small fry in term of fashion influence.


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Emma Watson Is So Serious About Her Eco-Friendly Fashion


When Emma Watson was at the peak of her Harry Potter fame, living what appeared to be the most glamorous life, she didn’t feel like herself.

“I’d walk down the red carpet and go into the bathroom,” the actress tells Vanity Fair in her March 2017 cover story interview. “I had on so much makeup and these big, fluffy, full-on backless prom dresses. I’d put my hands on the sink and look at myself in the mirror and say, ‘Who is this?’ I didn’t connect with the person who was looking back at me, and that was a very unsettling feeling.”

So unsettling, in fact, that it pushed Watson to take a step away from Hollywood in 2009 to attend Brown University, where really embraced her feminist point of view. She even chopped off her long iconic Hermoine hair into a Tinkerbell pixie in 2010, which she said made her feel “the sexiest I’ve ever felt.”

Now, as a U.N. Women Goodwill Ambassador and avid activist, the 26-year-old star does everything she can to make a difference — even when it comes to fashion and what she wears. In 2011, Watson collaborated with fair-trade fashion label People Tree and most recently, the star’s wearing and promoting sustainable fashion she’s wearing on the Beauty and the Beast press tour with daily posts on her new Instagram account.

Watson tells Vanity Fair when prepping for the promo tour, she created a PowerPoint presentation that her stylist sent fashion designers, which included a questionnaire about how their garments are produced, what their impact is on the environment and the moral reason why she should wear it on the red carpet.

The actress also says transforming Belle into a Disney princess that was “in charge of her own identity” for the actress’s highly anticipated live-action remake of Beauty and the Beast had her feeling like she “made that transition into being a woman on-screen.”

Watson worked closely with the film’s costume designer, Jacqueline Durran, to ensure her character’s wardrobe reflected the modern woman.

“The first shot of the movie cannot be Belle walking out of this quiet little town carrying a basket with a white napkin in it,’” she says. “We need to rev things up!” Instead of flouncy backless evening dresses and ballet flats, Watson wanted her character in bloomers, riding boots and tool belt-like pockets for her costume.

“The original sketches had her in her ballet shoes, which are lovely — don’t get me wrong,” Watson shares. “But she’s not going to be able to do anything terribly useful in ballet shoes in the middle of a French provincial village.”


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